Saturday, May 8, 2010

Acculturation

Well I've finally gotten enough complaints about not updating my blog that I'm now (finally) writing one. I hope you enjoy it!

One month ago, my family came from Canada to spend a week with me here in Tchad. It was great to see them again and catch up and spend some family time together before they were back on the plane. Showing them my life here and having them meet the people, see the places, sit through the church services (oh wait, they didn't actually make it through!), hear the languages, and of course, feel the heat, has definitely been eye-opening for them. Now that they are back in Canada, I've had time to begin to digest the experience for myself and think through what we encountered together.

When I first saw them stepp off the bus in Moundou, I almost pointed and called out "Nasara" (white foreigner). To me, they were the true Nasaras. Every day as Dan and I bike to school, or walk to grab a drink, or hang out outside our house, we are called Nasaras by the kids and "real" Tchadians. However, after living here for over nine months, I don't feel like a Nasara at all. I know the back-roads to get to school and how to avoid the cops, I can barter at the market without getting ripped off, I work in the kitchen and prepare "boule," I have a pretty sweet tan going on, and I have a ton of great friends. I have a life here. I belong.

Watching them step off the bus made me realize that they did NOT belong. I must admit, I was slightly embarrassed watching them try and round-up their suitcases, and I almost for a very slight second, wished they would just go back to North America where they fit in. That's when I realized, I must have been exactly like them stepping off the bus 9 months ago. It's incredible for me to see how much I have changed living in this culture and among my Tchadian friends. And I changed without even realizing it!

So what changes have I noticed after my week with my family?

1) Stuff

I couldn't even believe how much stuff my family brought. I literally cried when I saw everything they brought because it was so overwhelming. I cannot even imagine a North American mall after "shopping" at the local market. Previous to my family coming, all of my belongings meaning clothes, shoes, hygiene products for a year, medications etc. fit into a suitcase. How many North Americans can say that all of their belongings fit into one 50-pound suitcase, and one 50-pound hockey bag? I can name very few. Don't be surprised if you see me wearing the same outfit EVERY time you see me!

2) Speed

I have to admit, this one was very hard for me to learn and Dan had to constantly badger me to slow down and just enjoy life. In Canada, I am one of those people who always must be doing something. This was diificult because in Tchad, 'doing something' means sitting in the shade or reading a book, or even just 'thinking' ... and well, that just didn't cut it for me. Even something like walking with my family made me realize how much I've now learned to slow down. While walking home from ATNV, my family was going "North American" pace, and I would have been at least 100m behind them if I had not insisted that they slow down. What was the hurry they were in anyways? We had all day to get where we were going!

3) Time

In Tchad, nobody, and I repeat nobody, is ever in a hurry. If you are walking in the street and you see a friend, you stop and talk. Every time you see someone, whether you know them or not, you shake hands and ask them how life is going for them. And yes, that means that you will often be having a full 10 minute conversation about the weather in Tchad and how they just got back from a trip to N'Djamena, and how their brother is getting married, and how their grandfather is in the village hospital, and how their older sister just gave birth to twins, and how, and how, and how ... before you even begin to mention what you actually wanted to talk about.

Another example, if you are going to a meeting that starts at 4pm and if you actually arrive at 4pm, or so help you, early, be prepared to wait until at least 4.30pm when people will actually begin to show up. You must then talk to these people (the full 10 minute conversation for each) before you can start the meeting - probably around 5.15pm. Consider this a wanring the next time you ask me "how are you." Don't be surprised if I insist on grabbing a drink and sitting down for awhile to tell you about life!

4) The Little Things

I couldn't believe how many "little things" seem second-nature to me, but were never done by my family unless I told them to since they are just not part of North American culture. For example, we went and visited with Dan's host parents because my mom wanted to buy a calabash for bread back in Canada. So we got to the house, and I knew in my head that my mom was obviously thinking about picking out a calabash for her bread. And why not, this is normal for her. However, before I ever even mentioned that we had come to pick out a calabash, we were seated on the veranda, served water and cold pop, and were having an in-depth discussion about Dan's host-parents' children. Finally, after 30 minutes of chit-chat, I mentioned off-hand that my mom was interested in finding a calabash for her bread. Communication here is very indirict, and Dan's host mom knew right away that what I was actually saying was that we'd come to purchase one of her calabashes. She then sent for some children to pull them out of a back room to show to my mom. It wasn't long - maybe a minute or two - before my mom had picked out the one she liked. But don't think that this is finished yet! She may have made her selection, but she still had to admire all of the other calabashes for another five minutes before actually making a choice to buy one. Finally, we left for home 45 minutes later.

Some other 'little things' that my family wasn't completely aware of ... how to tie a headscarf, how you must hold up two hands to greet people from a distance, the expectation of eating the gizzard since they were guests, being expected to make a speech in church, or how corrupt officials can be - ask them about their experience at the N'Djamena airport with the police! And the list goes on.

Now, I don't want to seem like I am ranting about my family because that just isn't true at all. We had a great time together and were always able to laugh about the daily events afterwards. What was awesome was that they were always willing to learn. When I told them that the word for the day was "lapia" instead of "bonjour" because we were going to the village for the morning where people don't speak French, I heard them say lapia more times than I think I ever have said it myself in my 9 months living here!

I personally have also made a bazillion mistakes living here, and it is through these experiences that I have "evolved" into a Tchadian. One time I was sweeping the house when we had guests, and my mama informed me afterwards that sweeping while guests are inside means that you want them to leave and that you were "sweeping" them out with all the dust and dirt! Definitely NOT what I was going for! Another time I accidentally "ordered" boule at Dan's house when I mentioned off-hand to one of his sisters that I really like boule when I saw them preparing it after Dan and I had just finished eating lunch. Oops!

Overall, my family's visit has made me realize that, no, I am not a "full" Tchadian, but I am not quite a "full" North American either. I am caught in between doing my best to learn wihle serving the people in Tchad ... oh yeah, good thing that's what this year is all about =)

Saturday, February 6, 2010

My Life in Moundou

Hi Everyone!

So I know that a lot of you are aware that I'm here in Tchad teaching English ... but that's about all you know! So I thought that I would tell you what I actually do on a typical day here so that you know a little bit more about what is actually going on.

Morning (begins between 5-6am)

I wake up and put my pagne over my shorts (a pagne is a bit like a sarong since it's not culturally appropriate for girls to wear shorts), and head to the kitchen to help with breakfast. Every morning begins with bread and tea with either fruit, beignets (kind of like a Tchadian donut), or bouille (a drinkable porridge). After breakfast there are dishes to wash and dry which I often do by myself or with my sister if she doesn't have school. Once breakfast is cleaned up we start the housework. In my house we have a huge veranda and then a living room, both which I sweep and wash the floors of regularily (everyday or every other). We then do other little jobs such as tying peanuts in bags to sell for 25 F CFA each (about 10 cents), making juice for our guard to sell to the students walking home from school, washing the bathrooms and windows (about once a week), and dusting the house - the dry season causes us to have to do this daily.

Between 9.30-10am we start with lunch in our outdoor kitchen while mama goes to the market. We eat rice or boule everyday with a sauce and either chicken, fish, or meat, and often a fruit/vegetable (beans, cassava, carrots, potatoes, bananas or papayas). We make a charcoal fire and cut up the meat first because it takes the longest to cook. Then we peel garlic and onions for the sauce while others prepare the vegetables. Finally, we make the rice or boule once the meat has finished cooking. Lunch usually takes about 3-4 hours to make, so we often eat between 1-2pm. After lunch we do the dishes and feed our eight puppies (they aren't all named but we have Oreo, Indiana, Light Off, Snoop Dawg, and Jaws), the dog (Juliette), and the cat (Ivan).

Afternoon

After lunch is finished, Dan comes over and we hang out with friends for awhile. Sometimes we have other random jobs like slaughtering/plucking/cutting up a couple of chickens or guinea fowl for the next day's lunch, running errands to the store for mama or papa, repairing our bikes since they are almost always "en panne" (broken!), and preparing our English lessons for CENTRAM. At 15.30 we bike 30 minutes to school where we teach from 16-18h. This semester I am teaching Beginner II, Intermediate High I, and Intermediate High II. They each have class twice a week which means I am at the school everyday except Sunday. It's a lot of work, but also a ton of fun!

Evening

After biking back from school, we always grab a glass of water and talk with the night guard and friends until dinner. We also have to refill the water filter and any empty bottles when there is water since you never know when it will be cut. For dinner we usually eat a sauce with pasta, yams, couscous or rice, and other vegetables/fruits, and sometimes bouille. Once we've all eaten and the dishes are done (around 20h), we have time to either relax if there is light, or go to bed if there isn't. I typically spend the time with my brother out on the veranda (the coolest place!) talking until 22h when we both go to bed. Finally it's time to close the window in my bedroom and crawl under my mosquito netting. Another busy day comes to a close in Moundou, Tchad.

Thursday, December 17, 2009

LAPIA!!!

Lapia! (Hello)

Well it’s been a really long time since I’ve updated my blog. This is not because nothing has happened, but instead because so much has happened that I haven’t had time to write about it all! I think the easiest thing for me to do right now is just to make a list of all the awesome stuff that I’ve done and then you will just have to ask me about it when I come home (or of course, you could call me!).

Awesome stuff that I’ve done:

-learned how to play mandolin (clearly an essential life-skill)

-grilled peanuts and bagged them to sell for 25 F CFA (or about 10 cents)

-shucked corn using my bare hands (which resulted in 5 blisters)

-squeezed enough lemons by hand to fill a 5 litre bottle with lemon juice (this was done while I had the blisters … not fun!)

-learned how to cook pretty much everything that we eat here (I still need more practice in the goat department)

-became cool enough to do a Chadian handshake with friends (you do this super sweet snapping thing that I’ll have to teach you all when I get back home)

-I was given my very own “Chants de Victoire” book (the hymnal used by Chadians … words only, no music is ever written – songs can get interesting!)

-learned how to pee in the bush (sorry if this is TMI but it was a huge accomplishment for me!)

-have turned down 287 marriage proposals… and counting (one of Dan’s goals is to marry 3 Tchadienne women)

-finished teaching classes and gave exams to my students

-entertained visitors from Nigeria, Burkina Faso, and the United States

-learned how to speak a bit of Ngambaye since papa’s older sister and a friend came from the village to stay for us for a couple days and didn’t speak any French

-gave a piano lesson (which is really difficult because music is read Do, Re, Mi etc instead of A, B, C)

-ate cow tongue at Dan’s house

-had cake for my birthday (which was a total surprise! Mama brought out the papaya tray but underneath the lid we found a huge cake shaped in a heart … thank you mama!!)

-Dan taught my students how to sing Happy Birthday in English (and an enormous picture of me was waved around the room by one of my students)

-walked to church with my brother and Dan (Mama and Papa go to church for 8am, but we made it for 9.15am after making a couple stops – it was wonderful to only have to sit in church for 2.5 hours!)

-went to N’Djamena to visit friends (which involved an eventful bus ride … a man somehow managed to smuggle a live chicken on the bus and we had to listen to 6 hours of squawking … we saw camels … there was a lady who was in a huge hurry and wanted the bus driver to get us to N’Djamena in 4 hours instead of 6 which naturally meant that we drove even slower to annoy her and made random stops etc.)

-watched Muslims celebrate Tabaski (in other words we watched sheep being driven around on motorcycles)

-ate delicious food in N’Djamena (think brownies and ice cream, cake, spring rolls, roast beef, hot cross buns, pancakes, cinnamon buns, French fries, chicken wings, pasta, fruit salad, pizza … the list goes on!)

-went horseback riding at a golf course in the capital city (you only need a sand wedge if you want to play!)

-watched the baptism of about 400 people by about 60 pastors in the river (it was long!)

-had a movie night and watched Shrek the Halls, Chicken Run, and Kung Fu Panda

-went tree-slaloming at top speeds through the forest in a truck (this was a TON of fun!)

-learned how to play a card game called “8 Americains” which is apparently the game of thieves (and one that I’m quite good at … not sure if this is a good thing!)

-watched our dog, Juliette, give birth to 6 puppies

-helped translate my brother’s rap songs from French to English (he is extremely talented)

-learned how to repair and change a popped inner tube on a bike

-rode to school on my brother’s bicycle (Chadians can ride with up to 4 people on a bike!)

-had a water fight with Dan, my brother, and another friend

-watched “Remember the Titans” with my English class

-pounded cassava and millet with my sister (think trying to pound a rock into dust … result = 6 blisters)

-walked to the market when our friends from N’Djamena came to visit

-visited with a friend and had a tour of his compound and he explained about all the fruit trees he’s planted and showed us his huge garden

-made a friend from Nigeria who loves to practice her English

-ate banana bread for papa’s birthday

-walked to the river and met a man who was making bricks (it’s so much hard work … and it’s HOT!)

Anyways, I think that was a pretty thorough update of my life! I’ll try and write again soon but it will probably have to wait until January because my family is coming to visit me and then I’m leaving to go to Burkina Faso for a retreat/vacation with other MCC SALTers/workers! Keep praying for me =)

Your Tchadienne sister,

Nodji (This is the name I was given in Ngambaye … it means “one who loves others”)

Saturday, November 7, 2009

L'Ecole Tchadienne

La Vie à l’École --- School Life

As a SALTer in Moundou, I am expected to teach English classes at CENTRAM which runs primarily from 16:00-18:00 on Monday to Friday afternoons. The school consists of a concrete building with two classrooms and two offices (all used for teaching), located on the right side of an open field filled with oxen. The classrooms each have three or four blue windows (no screens of course), four to eight wooden tables and chairs, and a blackboard with a rag. There are no charts, pictures, posters, or any other teaching supplies other than the one book that the students have to purchase for 10 000 FCFA (about $20), which is our only ‘curriculum’.

Class begins at 16:00 (which is equivalent to about 16:20 ‘Chadian time’), and runs until 18:00 (or about 17:25 ‘Chadian time’). Getting used to ‘Chadian time’ has been difficult because I am accustomed to showing up ‘on time’ in Canada, which is the time that had previously been decided. However in Chad, if class begins at 16:00, that is the time when the students will begin preparing to leave their homes, flag a moto-taxi, possibly run an errand or two, maybe stop by and say hello to some friends, and then arrive to class … "on time."

Once the students trickle in, class is ready to start. Each class consists of between one to ten students ranging from about 20 to 60 years old. Class usually begins with a reading exercise and comprehension questions, followed by vocabulary, pronunciation, functions, grammar, translating from French to English, and a writing exercise.

Teaching has been a TON of fun since I have so many incredible, and very intelligent, students. I teach Intermediate High 1 on Mondays and Wednesdays, Intermediate High 2 on Tuesdays and Saturdays, and Beginner 2 on Thursdays and Fridays. The other teachers always comment on the high noise level and laughter coming from my classroom since we have so much fun together. I’ve brought in my pictures and videos that I’ve taken here in Chad which are always a big hit, especially if I try and use some of my Ngambaye (the local language) to explain what’s happening!

This past week, one of my classes read a section of a story about having parties when we came across the word ‘teenager.’ Needless to say, I am now greeted as ‘teenager,’ followed by uproarious laughter every time my students see me at school or in the streets.

Anyways, I hope you enjoyed getting a quick glimpse of my afternoon work here in Moundou. Thanks for all of the thoughts and prayers … keep them coming!

Your sister,

Katie

Thursday, October 1, 2009

Chad from A to Z

Chad from A to Z

Air conditioning is greatly missed
Biking is difficult with craters and ponds in the middle of the roads
Cockroaches are my new pets (Ellen, Dave, and Jesse live in my bathroom)
Disease is common; I’ve been to the hospital twice
Every day brings a new adventure
Fruit is a luxury that is very hard to come by
Guests will stop by at any hour between 5AM and 10PM
Heat radiates from the buildings during the evenings because it is so hot
Installation of a local chief has been a highlight, we even got cake afterwards (the only time I ever have had dessert, and probably ever will have dessert in Chad)
Jobs like plucking chickens and removing intestines are disgusting, but tasks that I have learned
Kids love to smile and wave and laugh as I bike past
Lemonade is made by yours truly every other day, but doesn’t take too much effort
Motos will run you over
Nasara; the word that I hear most (it means white foreigner)
Offering in church is done by everyone getting up (about 1000 people) and walking past the basket at the front to drop in money ... sometimes this happens twice!
Poverty is everywhere, but people are still happy and optimistic
Quiet is something that neither people nor animals partake in, at any hour
Right of way goes to the biggest vehicle on the road
Sundays and Wednesdays are for church and prayer meetings, both are very long
Toads about the size of 2 fists are not uncommon, and often have appear in my bedroom at 1AM
Umbrellas are used for protection from the sun, not the rain because it is so powerful that they would be destroyed in seconds
Village trips are always interesting with lots to see and do (like playing soccer with the kids and teaching them how to play with bubbles and play-dough)
Washing clothes is a longer process than throwing them in the machine
eXam time for the current English session is between September 21st-30th
Yams, cassava, potatoes, corn, and beans are the most common (but still scarce) vegetables
Zebras and other cool animals are not in Chad; instead we have lizards, salamanders, snakes, dogs, oxen, mosquitoes, spiders, toads, and cockroaches

Wednesday, September 2, 2009

Chad!

I made it! Dan and I landed in N’Djamena, Chad on Monday August 24th, 2009. We arrived at about 1.30am Chad time, and then made our way very slowly through airport security with the help of a local pastor with connections to MCC. After loading up the truck with our luggage (yes it all made it!), we drove to a house where an MCC family will be staying for a 3 year term. We had a quick tour by candlelight and then fell asleep in real beds for the first time since Friday night.

In the morning, after taking my Malaria medicine, we went for a tour of the village and saw “Chad in action.” The crowded streets, the people selling food from their heads, the lizards crawling on the walls, the sounds of horns honking along the road … everything I imagined and much more! It was a hot day with no electricity to run a fan or fridge, and we felt like we were camping in a house.

In the evening, the 3-year term MCC family arrived via Air France and Dan and I were no longer the Chadian newbies. Unfortunately once we got back home to the gate, we realized we were locked out and had to seek help from a neighbour to help us into the courtyard at 11pm. Finally we made it inside, and luckily for our new friends from Manitoba, the electricity switched on and they got the luxury of moving in with lights and fans.

After spending a couple days with the family and meeting local Chadians connected with MCC, it was finally time for us (Dan and I) to head to Moundou where we will be staying for the upcoming year. We climbed aboard a bus for our 5.5 hour bus ride south on the only paved road between N’Djamena and Moundou. At about 5.30pm that evening, we were sitting in the living room of my new home drinking cold drinks for the first time since Akron over a week ago. We had a tour of the house and then a wonderful feast of chicken, potatoes, beans, carrots, bread, and rice with a sauce. Dan’s “parents” then came for a visit and picked him up to bring him back to his new house in Moundou.

The next couple days were packed full of meeting new people, touring Moundou, buying necessary items from the market, and spending time getting to know my new “family.” On Sunday we went to church at EET #8 (Église Évangélique du Tchad) which was a very different experience than church back home. There were about 1000 people in the congregation, 2 choirs, and of course, very hard and very uncomfortable wooden benches to sit on. I also started learning a bit of the local language, Ngambaye, which sounds more like singing when people speak because the pitch at which a word is said changes its meaning.

On Monday August 31st, all of the professors at CENTRAM (the school where Dan and I will be teaching English) got together to plan the courses we will be teaching. I was assigned to teach High Intermediate I and II, as well as run the lab for Beginner I and II. On Saturday mornings, I will also be working alongside other professors to help with the English Club.

Anyways, I think I’ve written more than enough since words can’t even begin to describe the experiences that I am having here (and pictures would never upload with the speed of the internet connection!). I will try and update my blog as often as possible; however, internet here is very limited.

Thank you for all of your continued prayers, keep them coming =)

Saturday, August 22, 2009

Pharyngitis, Inflamed Tonsils, Fever, Bee Sting, Poison Ivy ...

Well I think the title pretty much covers it ... I'm sick.

Since orientation last week (which I must say was just incredible!!), a ton has happened. Once everyone had left for their assignments, a couple of us were "stuck" in Akron until our turn to fly out would come. We moved our stuff up to the Main House and got to spend the week with other MCC volunteers, who are really really awesome people!

Monday, Tuesday, and Thursday morning, three of us worked at the Mennonite Resource Centre (I guess it's spelt Center in the US!) making school kits, oil rags and baby hats from old tshirts, packing health kits, and other random jobs too. However on Thursday, I ended up only being able to work for about 30 minutes before my legs wouldn't support me anymore and I got very sick, very fast. I ended up sleeping on the couch while the others worked for the rest of the day.

Wednesday was spent doing grounds work/maintance around the MCC building. We were assigned to pull weeds from 2 of the flower beds, and also remove a patch of poison ivy (which just so happened to be my lucky job). Luckily for me, my body seems to have a very high tolerance to poison ivy and I only managed to get a couple of red spots which did not spread or even itch unless I started scratching them first ... I learned very quickly not to do that! While pulling weeds, we also happened to come across a huge bee nest filled with some VERY angry bees (one of which stung me right beside the ear, ouch!). The most exciting events of the day would have to have been getting to drive the golf cart that they gave us, and seeing 3 huge praying mantasis. I have no idea if that's the spelling or grammatical pluralization of mantasis ... maybe I should find out before I try and teach English!!

Afternoons have been spent (before I got sick of course) researching material and putting together curriculum for our ESL classes that I believe will be starting in October/November. I found out that I will be teaching advanced English 1 and 2, as well as doing an English lab, teaching TOEFL English, and helping out with English Club at the school. It's definitely going to be a challenge!!

Anyways, I need go to take some more painkillers and put the finishing touches on my luggage so that I'm already to leave her in an hour and a half!

Thank you to everyone for your ongoing support and prayers, they truly have been appreciated =)

God be with you all until we meet again,

Katie